Extreme High Swell Events on the Moroccan Atlantic Coast

2.0 About High Swell Events » 2.8 Analyzing Swell: Wave Model Data

Numerical wave models track the location and propagation direction of newly generated waves and existing swell groups. They use this information, along with great-circle tracks and wave physics to forecast their movement.

Several models are operated by national meteorological services, the most widely used being NOAA's WAVEWATCH III and ECMWF’s third generation WAveModel (WAM). Both simulate the rate of change of the two-dimensional wave spectrum in any water depth caused by advection, wind input, and dissipation due to whitecapping and bottom friction, as well as non-linear wave interactions. The models differ principally in the source of the wind fields used - the Global Forecast System (GFS) atmospheric model for WAVEWATCH III and ECMWF’s atmospheric model for the WAM. Here are links to more information on both models.